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Гроші - у пляшки з гарним вином або «Чому вино буває дуже дорогим?» Колекціонування
Вино як інструмент інвестицій... Напевно, не існує у світі теми про вино, яка була б для мене більш неприйнятною ніж ця. Занадто живою та особистісною матерією є для мене вино. Занадто багато несправедливості та справжніх нещасть приніс у світ вина підхід до нього як до предмету антикваріату, моди або фінансового інструменту. Занадто багато вина виготовляється сьогодні тільки для того, щоб сподобатися винним журналістам - цим "фінансовим аналітикам" винного ринку. Нарешті, занадто багато грошей перетікає в кишені шустрих ремісників від виноробства, що бадьоро клепають "супертакі-то" вина на хвилі ринкової кон'юнктури.

І все ж таки не можна не визнати, що тема ця має право на існування - раз уже існує вона в реальному житті.

Про те, що вино може принести чималий статок, свідчить хоча б той факт, що у світі постійно зростає число винних аукціонів і, відповідно, кількість їхніх учасників. Якщо раніше найвідоміші аукціонні дома Sotheby's та Christie's влаштовували винні торги тільки в Лондоні, то з початку 90-х рр. XX ст. вони регулярно проводять аукціони в різних містах США. В останні роки свої комерційні аукціони з'явилися у Франції, Бельгії, Австралії, в інших країнах. При цьому в лондонських торгах, які все ж таки залишаються найбільшими, беруть участь в основному приватні колекціонери. За свідченням дому Christie's, вони складають близько 70% учасників. Чому ці люди постійно продають одні вина і купують інші, здогадатися неважко: вино - одне з найбільш вигідних капіталовкладень, яке тільки можна собі уявити. Придбавши молоде велике вино вдалого врожаю, вже через 3 - 4 роки його можна буде продати за ціною, що у 5 - 7 разів перевищує початкову. І якщо сьогодні пляшка знаменитого Chateau Petrus 1997 р. коштує близько $800, то можете самі підрахувати, яка буде її ціна через декілька років.

Ціна на вино в першу чергу залежить від аппелласьона. Це поняття з'явилося у Франції і є наріжним каменем системи контролю найменування за походженням. Її значення полягає у визнанні того факту, що вино народжується на винограднику, що виноградна ягода визначає у кінцевому підсумку якість і смак вина. Від ступеня престижності аппелласьона та присвоєного даній ділянці землі класу безпосередньо залежить вартість цієї ділянки і, як результат, - ціна виробленого з неї вина. Саме тому великі вина Бордо і Бургундії залишаються найдорожчими винами світу та найпривабливішою ціллю для колекціонерів.

Другий фактор, що впливає на вартість вина, - це рік врожаю (вінтаж). Ціни на вина, створені в роки кращих врожаїв початку - середини XX ст., можуть сягати просто захмарних висот. Так, у 1996 р. у Нью-Йорку ящик Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1945 р. був проданий за $112 000. Звичайно, тут іде мова про рекордні ціни. Однак і при купівлі більш молодих вин колекціонери насамперед звертають увагу на рік врожаю. У Бордо кращими з них вважаються 1982, 1985, 1986, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996 рр.

І ще один фактор. Не останню роль в утворенні ціни на вино, на жаль, відіграє мода, яка у багато разів збільшує вартість вин, що не завжди відповідають цій вартості. Великі бордо, бургундське Romanee Conti, кращі шампанські, старі витримані портвейни - вина, до яких поняття моди незастосовне, вони назавжди зайняли місце в еліті за правом свого походження, аппелласьона. Однак існують ще декілька категорій вин, за які сьогоднішні покупці готові викладати чималі гроші та у які, проте, не варто інвестувати. Це насамперед супертосканські та деякі американські вина, що гордо очолюють рейтинги найбільш чутливого до моди журналу Wine Spectator. Чи варті вони тих сотень доларів, за які їх виставляють на аукціонах? Ні, не варті. Але попит визначає пропозицію. (Втім, ніщо не є таким мінливим, як мода). Отже, нам у першому наближенні стало зрозуміло, у які вина найкраще вкладати заощадження. Тепер потрібно з'ясувати, як добитися того, щоб ці вина збереглися, поліпшили свої якості, а потім і примножили ваш капітал. Для цього, як і у будь-якому іншому бізнесі, спочатку потрібно витратитися самому, і першою витратою стане винна шафа або льох, що забезпечить необхідні умови для зберігання вашої колекції. Залежно від ваших амбіцій це може коштувати від $1100 (найпростіша монотемпературна шафа на 150 пляшок) до $30 000 і вище (повністю обладнаний льох у заміському будинку).

Ну а інші витрати доведеться робити все життя: якщо ви почнете створювати власну винну колекції, то навряд чи коли-небудь зупинитеся - це заняття дуже затягує. У будь-якому разі за перші 200 пляшок гідного вина вам доведеться викласти ніяк не менше $10 000. А про те, які саме вина купувати і де, ми розповімо у наступних колонках.

Марко Кауфман, президент виноторгової компанії "Уайтхолл"

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