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Украинская Баннерная Сеть
Як вибирати коштовності Колекціонування
Коштовності - це те, проти чого жодна жінка не зможе встояти. Є щось чаклунське у владі цих маленьких блискучих каменів і дорогих металів над жіночими душами. У ювелірних магазинах, розкладені вмілими руками на оксамитових підставках, вміло оформлені світлом, вони з'являються у всій своїй пишноті. Ніхто не зможе відмовитися.

Але, все ж таки, нам здається, що варто визначитися з вибором Вашого каменю. Існує безліч астрологічних прогнозів на цю тему, деякі радять обирати камені відповідно до кольору волосся або очей. В усьому цьому, напевно, є дещиця правди, однак зараз ми спробуємо розповісти вам про коштовності так, щоб ваш вибір був найбільш легким та приємним. Почнемо з діамантів.

Правило перше

Не купуйте коштовності в інтернет-магазинах і Тв-шопах.

Найголовніше в процесі покупки - приміряння. Якщо Ви вибираєте каблучку - надягніть її на пальчик, відчуйте, як холодний метал зігрівається теплом Вашої руки. Подивіться на руку, поверніть її та помилуйтеся грою граней та блиском оправи. Зверніть увагу на форму - чи підходить вона Вам. І найголовніше - відчуйте камінь. Він повинен викликати у Вас приємні емоції й радість, і нічого крім них. Ніякої дисгармонії та вагань, якщо цей камінь Ваш - Ви повинні відчувати це.

Правило друге

Визначиться з формою.

Тонкі каблучки надягайте на підмізинний палець по одній. Носити декілька каблучок на одному пальці (якщо це не передбачено дизайнерським рішенням) це моветон, навіть якщо одна з них є обручкою. Каблучки з білим каменем прийнято носити на середньому, або вказівному пальці, як і фантазійні каблучки з одним величезним або цілим букетом дрібних каменів. Дамам з дуже тонкими "дівочими" пальчиками краще уникати великих каменів.

Довгі серги-підвіски рекомендують дамам з довгою шиєю та виключно під гладкі зачіски. Якщо ви трохи повненькі - Ви можете собі дозволити масивні прикраси та серги-ґудзики.

Браслети без каменів носять вільно, недбало спустивши до кисті. Якщо ж браслет прикрашений композицією каменів або великим діамантом, його потрібно підтягти вище на руці і зафіксувати таким чином. Кулони краще приміряти на гладкому, однотонному одязі або глибокому вирізі. При виборі кольє обов'язково тільки декольте: кольє повинно гармоніювати насамперед з вашою шкірою.

Правило третє

Ознайомтеся з новими колекціями.

Останнім часом тенденції ювелірної моди змінилися. Виробники пропонують нам носити або холодно-класичні комплекти з діамантами, або яскравий розсип найнеймовірніших сполучень самоцвітів. Природно, тут доречно уточнити для чого Вам потрібна прикраса і з чим ви її збираєтеся носити. "Щоденні прикраси" повинні бути більш скромними та класичними. Іменитих виробників гарних і модних прикрас досить багато: Cartier, Tuffany&Co, Damiani, Bvlgari, Van Cleef&Arpels, Franck Muller, Carrera y Сarrera, Piaget, Chopard, та багато інших. Складно зорієнтуватися, чи не так? Спростимо завдання.

На сьогоднішній день можна подивитися екзотичну колекцію в японському стилі в Cartier, там же можна вибрати гладкі каблучки або новомодні браслети-наручники з дорогоцінними замочками. Тропічні квіти розцвітають особливо бурхливо у Van Cleef&Arpels, ланцюжки та класичні підвіски гарні у Tuffany&Co. За каблучками варто їхати до Carrera y Сarrera і Damiani, там же можна знайти яскравих метеликів в асортименті. Прикраси з різнобарвними каменями чудові у Bvlgari. Але у будь-якому разі, якщо Ви є шанувальником якої-небудь однієї фірми, у сезонних колекціях повинно бути представлене все, від ланцюжків до запонок.

Крупний план: принцип чотирьох С

Існують чотири критерії оцінки діаманта. Так звана класифікація чотирьох С - Color, Clarity, Cut, Carat.

Огранювання

Огранювання - це обробка коштовного каміння для надання їм певної форми і максимального виявлення їхньої гри та блиску. Щоб визначитися з термінами, уточнимо, що верхня горизонтальна грань називається таблицею або площадкою, нижня горизонтальна грань називається колетою. Пояс вузьких вертикальних граней називається рундистою, або ободком. А найпоширеніших форм каменів не так багато:

діамантова - найпоширеніша. Вона складається з двох багатогранних пірамід - повної та усіченої, складених основами. Грані корони і павільйону розташовуються у декілька рядів, поширене трирядне розміщення граней. Частіше використовуються такі види діамантового огранювання: повне, на 57 граней і спрощене, на 17 граней (для дуже дрібних діамантів);

східчаста (смарагдова, багет) - для прямокутних або трапецієвидних у плані каменів;

маркіз ("човник") - витягнута, із загостреними кінцями;

груша - несиметрична, витягнута в одну сторону, з одним загостреним кінцем. Сильно витягнута груша називається панделоком.

бріолет ("крапля") - застосовуються як підвіски в сергах;

кабошон - гладкий опуклий шліфований камінь без різко виражених граней і ребер, найчастіше так гранують кольорові камені.

троянда - старовинне огранювання із плоскою нижньою частиною

таблиця - вид огранювання плоского каменю з великою відполірованою верхньою поверхнею.

Цікавий факт: у 1829 р. після вбивства Грибоєдова в Персії алмаз Шах був відправлений російському царю перським принцом. На 3-х відполірованих площадках цього алмаза були вигравірувані написи перською мовою, за якими частково можна відновити стародавню історію каменю. Крім цього, у 1867 році на Всесвітній Паризькій виставці був виставлений алмаз із різьбленням, що зображує голову чоловіка.

Колір

Як відомо, діаманти можуть бути прозорими, а можуть бути кольоровими. Про абсолютно прозорі без вад діаманти говорять, що вони "чистої води". Такі камені, коли вони не мають будь-якого кольорового відтінку, за винятком блакитнуватого, цінуються найбільш високо. Діаманти зі слабким жовтуватим відтінком називаються каменями "нечистої води" і цінуються значно нижче.

Куди більш привабливі діаманти канарково-жовтого кольору, рожевуватого або синього. Як правило, камені червонуватих або синіх відтінків мають сталевий блиск, сапфірово-сині ж діаманти – найбільш рідкісні, і безумно дорогі. При оцінці кольору важлива в першу чергу його яскравість і чистота.

Чистота

Чистота діаманта залежить від кількості вмісту вуглецю або чужорідних кристалів. Чим менше їх - тим чистіший діамант, а значить, і дорожчий. Більшість подібних дефектів неможливо розрізнити неозброєним оком, і щоб визначити їх потрібно спеціальне збільшення.

Вага в каратах

Якщо ви поки що не зважилися купувати великий камінь, для якого набагато важливіше чистота і колір, зверніть увагу на вагу діаманта - від нього і залежатиме ціна. Саме слово карат походить від назви насіння караїбського дерева, якими у стародавні часи вимірювали вагу коштовного каміння. Один карат=0,2 грами. Залежно від ваги, виникає ще одна класифікація: Дрібними вважаються діаманти, які мають масу до 0,29 карата, середніми - від 0,3 до 0,99 карата і великими ("солітерами") - 1 карат і більше. Діаманти, що мають масу більше 6 каратів, продаються, як правило, з аукціонів.

Позначення

Зазвичай ювеліри зашифровують якісні характеристики каменів так , що часом в них досить складно розібратися. Перша цифра перед буквою р позначає кількість діамантів у виробі, за нею цифра, що позначає кількість граней одного діаманта. Форму шліфування позначають буквами (кр - кругла, кб - кабошон). І останні дві цифри - це колір і чистота. Чим більшою є перша цифра, тим темнішим є камінь. Із другою цифрою все навпаки: чим вона більше, тим помітніше дефект каменю (від 3, коли він помітний тільки при використанні професійного обладнання, до 8, коли його видно неозброєним оком).

І, насамкінець.

Правило четверте

Якщо ви вирішили купувати камінь із ім'ям і родоводом, ознайомтеся з його історією.

З походженням і переміщенням великих каменів пов'язані цілі легенди. Для початку, легенда про діамант "Орлів", який фаворит Катерини подарував їй на іменини. А одного разу в чолі індійського бога Шиви сіяв прекрасний алмаз, символізуючи його третє око. Через недбалість жерця, який охороняв статую, камінь був викрадений. Потім алмаз був огранований, декілька разів перепродавався, поки не потрапив до Росії. Але тільки бог Шива, розгніваний крадіжкою святині, прокляв камінь, що потрапив до нечесних рук.

Інша страшна історія, більш популярна в наші дні - історія чудового синього діаманта Hope. Чи пам’ятаєте ви серцеподібний камінь із фільму "Титаник"? Це кіношний прототип цього діаманта. За часів короля Франції Луї XIV він одержав назву Blue Diamond of the Crown, але був викрадений під час однієї з французьких революцій. У 1830 році камінь з'явився в Лондоні, де його купив якийсь Генрі Хоуп (Henry Phillip Hope), за іменем якого зараз камінь і називають. І все було б добре, але бідолаху Генрі почали переслідувати невдачі, аж до його смерті. На жаль, не тільки Генрі, але і його родину. З тих пір цей діамант називають проклятим, незважаючи на його красиве ім'я.

Війни, підпали, пограбування та вбивства - все це через порівняно маленький камінчик. Діаманти вічні, і хто знає коли який-небудь зі знаменитих каменів воскресне з небуття? Два роки тому рожевий діамант вагою 162 карата і вартістю 6 мільйонів доларів безвісти зник з борта авіалайнера, що слідував зі Швейцарії до ПАР. Безвісти зник - хоча діаманти не горять, не плавляться, не стираються, зазначає інтернет-ресурс "Спробуємо".

Траплялося також, що величезні діаманти знаходили в речах черниць, що зберігали їх як талісмани або пам'ятки. Тільки в цьому випадку вони несли добро, як це не парадоксально. Виходить, що їх не можна купити – для них не прийнятна жадібність. Їм потрібно добро, і вони відповідять Вам тим же.

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